“I really, really like Christmas food,” the Inhouse Food Critic declared as we were having our Christmas Eve dinner. Wonderful, I thought – except that very few items on the table were traditional Christmas fare.
We have been living abroad for quite some time, and as going ‘back home’ for Christmas holidays is – for various reasons – both impractical and very expensive, we have had the opportunity to create our own Christmas food traditions, to pick and choose only those traditional Finnish things we like and top up with whatever we fancied.
This Christmas, for example, our table was laden with dishes such as pheasant terrine, carrot pate, caramellised leek, gravadlax, pickled herring, gammon cooked in cider and baked rubbed with jerk spice mixture, rosolli and imelletty perunalaatikko, sticky toffee pudding for afters, not to mention our traditional ‘light’ lunch (on Christmas day or Boxing day, it depends) of buckwheat blinis with toppings such soured cream, lumpfish roe, smoked salmon, pickled cucumber and honey.
Rosolli – a cold salad of boiled carrots, boiled beetroot, boiled potatoes, pickled cucumber, apples and onion – and imelletty perunalaatikko – best described as sweet (!) mashed potato casserole – are the most traditional elements of our Christmas foods, they are dishes you only make for Christmas. Rosolli is the Inhouse Food Critic’s speciality, so no more about that, but I am going to give you my special recipe for the perunalaatikko. It is somewhat unorthodox – I took inspiration from Heston Blumenthal and his tips for the ultimate mashed potato – but the result is very tasty indeed.
Imelletty perunalaatikko
Ingredients
2000g even-sized potatoes, washed (a floury variety, such as Maris Piper)
100ml plain flour
100-400ml milk
1.5 tsp salt
50-100g butter
(grated nutmeg)
Put the potatoes on a baking tray, put it in the oven and set the temperature for 250C. Bake until the potatoes are soft (the flesh should be all fluffy), let cool a little so that you can handle them, cut in half and scoop the potato flesh into a large bowl. Add the butter and salt, and mash until silky smooth (bamix or other hand mixer is good). Add about third of the flour and mix well.
Now is the tricky part, where no cheating is allowed, otherwise you will end up with just a loose, baked mash. The whole point of the dish is to get some of the starch turn into sugars, so that the bake will have a rich, slightly sweet taste. In order to get the process started you need to keep the mixture warm enough. Therefore, set your oven to 60-70C, which is about ideal, cover the bowl with a clean kitchen towel and put it in the oven for a few hours, adding the rest of the flour in two batches. After a few hours, taste the mixture to ensure that there is distinct sweetness, if there is not, then add some more flour and put the bowl back in the oven for an hour or two, which should do the trick. After that you can turn the oven off and leave the bowl there, to allow the mixture to mature until the next day.
Now, the baking part. Set the oven to 160C. Grease a large, deep casserole dish – the mash mixture should come only around half way, as it may rise quite a bit momentarily while cooking. Then add the milk in the mixture in batches, mixing thoroughly. The mixture should be like normal mash that is a little bit too runny. Pour the mixture in the casserole dish, add some grated nutmeg (if you like) and a few knobs of butter on top and bake in the oven until it is golden brown – for about 1.5-2 hours. To ensure it does not dry up it might be good to cover it with foil for the first 45 mins or so.
Serve as side dish with e.g. baked gammon.
Note: I have heard people using spices such as cinnamon and aniseed, but I cannot say whether they work well or not – in the spirit of the season of goodwill, I have not tampered with this tried and tested recipe which has been approved by the Inhouse Food Critic.
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